It is often said that what makes fantastic journeys are the people you meet and not the places you visit -we have already met some truly wonderful people during our trip so far and our first night in Poland was not going to be the exception.

Deciding to ride through Lithuania without stopping (next time we promise we will!) we had crossed the borders without any problems, just the usual queues. We were heading in the general direction of Warsaw but lulled by the past few days’ relaxation we had set off without any real plan or idea, or for that matter even currency!

The night was drawing in and 600km had just clicked up on the trip meter. We’d had a good days riding but were now tired and needed to stop. Unbeknownst to us we were in an area known as Masuria, the Polish lake district.

Riding along through the tree-lined road we glimpsed tents. Great- a campsite! However, there were no signs anywhere for it and no obvious campsite entry. The only sign we could see was 'sanatorium'. Now a sanatorium in the UK used to refer to a medical facility which is specially run for patients who are suffering from long-term illnesses. In years gone by these facilities were mainly associated with people who were suffering from tuberculosis. So, just imagine our surprise to see this sign but to also see tents erected and a holiday-like feel to the place.  I think the easiest way to describe it is rather like our Butlins holiday park in the UK, but with much less commercialism.

After being waved in we pulled into the site and after hauling ourselves off the bikes were enthusiastically welcomed by Monica and Vycheck (the site manager and his girlfriend who was there on holiday).

It was late by the time we’d pitched the tent, which had been a slow affair due to all the children that gathered around, excited by the bikes and bemused by the two funny-looking riders who by this time were also looking the worse for wear. Monica appeared some time later and in polite but perfect English asked “We are having some food, we would like to invite you to dinner”. 20 mins later, with introductions sorted we were sat round a table at the entrance to the site eating BBQ’d food, fresh salad and sipping on cold beer laughing and joking like old friends.

It wasn’t long before Vodka was mentioned, “have you tried Polish vodka?” asked Vycheck – of course I hadn’t but knew I was going to. Lisa had and then mentioned her love of Krupnik, a Polish honey-based vodka that she had been unable to buy in Europe for the past 12 years. They were surprised that Lisa knew of this and with that Monica was up and away in a flash bringing back to the table a bottle of the very same! Needless to say a fantastic and memorable evening was had which ended up including two bottles of vodka, half a bottle of locally brewed ‘something’ which was incredibly strong and an entire bottle of Krupnik.

Yet again we’d both been floored and delighted in the spontaneous and genuine hospitality we’d been shown by relative strangers, however, our experience was proving a well-known expression true – ‘there are no strangers, only friends you haven’t met yet’:

Simon surprisingly had no hangover however, I was suffering a little! All my own fault and way too much krupnik.

The campers around us were keen for us to enjoy a traditional Polish breakfast with them and so we wandered slowly (with me suffering all the way!) up to the canteen area. The breakfast was indeed traditional...and something which we both struggled to eat (and we will try most things!)

Breakfast was a so called “milky soup” (zupa mleczna) – milk, butter, Kluski(soft mushy) noodles, salt and sugar. I'm sure it was meant to be hot but it was lukewarm and reminded me of a slimy wallpaper paste. This, with a hangover, is a recipe for disaster! However, we did our best, especially as our breakfast partners ensured we had a large bowl! The dry biscuits with meat were much better and helped us to keep down the slimy, now cold milky noodles......bleh!

Later on we were told it was similar to rice pudding.....mmm...nope! Nothing like the rice pudding I have ever had because if it had been I would have loved it.

We packed the tent away distracted again by the many children who now wanted their photo taken whilst sitting on the bikes. I should add not only children, much to my amusement, there were also three ladies who wanted their picture taken with Simon whilst they were sitting as pillion on the back of his bike! With many ‘coy’ smiles and fluttering eyelashes, all the ladies had their picture taken whilst holding tightly onto Simon.  Why they needed to hold on was beyond me as they were not moving, but they definitely seemed to enjoy it nonetheless!

We were tempted to stay another night as we were reluctant to leave newfound friends but Warsaw was calling. Midday had come and gone before we set off and after a few more photos we were on the road heading for Warsaw.

The road was very bad, not with holes but with deep ruts where huge lorries had dug deep groves with their tyres. It was very reminiscent of the road from Moscow to St. Petersburg. Crossing the deep ruts was a problem as sometimes the tar had been pushed up so high it was like crossing a high kerb when overtaking. Definitely not my idea of fun!

It was another very hot and humid day and we had bursts of torrential rain with thunder and fork lightening, which strangely I love! The rain also made the roads very slippy and greasy adding to the ‘pleasure’ of riding today.

We thought we’d reach Warsaw with time to spare but, due to the weather and poor condition of the roads, the trip took a little longer than we had hoped and so on the northerly outskirts of the city we decided to stop when we saw camping on what looked like a beach. (GPS -N 52° 26, E 21° 00).

With no facilities but a beer tent and one toilet for the whole beach (or so it seemed) we gratefully put up the tent after struggling our way through fairly deep sand with the bikes.

Note to self: we need much more practice on sand before attempting the Sahara!

We made a move at a reasonable time for once and managed to reach Warsaw around 10:30. However, we were unable to find anywhere to stop with the bikes where we could safely leave them but still keep in eye contact! All we wanted was a coffee and by the time we found a decent place to stop (by going up a one way street into a pedestrian zone) we were hot, tired and a little pissed off! However, the café made up for it as it was serving what looked like fantastic chunks of cream cake.

In the relaxed atmosphere of the cafe, it wasn’t long before we struck up a conversation with the young lady to our right whom we’d seen earlier tucking into a luscious piece of cake (bannoffee cream, Mmmmmm...) Jessica was an American working for a few months in Warsaw as part of her University studies, International affairs (hope we’ve got this right Jessica!). She had previously been in Bolivia. As cake and good coffee were enjoyed, the conversation easily saw the hour mark.

Lisa’s love of classical music was thrown into the conversational mix and to our delight Jessica quickly suggested we join her and a friend in Warsaw’s Royal Baths Park (aka Łazienki Park) where there was a free Chopin concert. Of course it was music (literally!) to Lisa’s ears! Chopin being played in the park where he used to walk when he lived in Warsaw, was a wonderful dream come true for Lisa.

In the park there is a large bronze statue of Frédéric Chopin, which was finally cast and erected in 1926 but then destroyed in WW2. The original mould for the statue survived however and this made it possible to cast a replica, which was placed at the original site in 1958. So we were told it was at this statue’s base, (and every year since 1959) on summer Sunday afternoons there are free performances of piano recitals of Chopin’s compositions.

However, prior to our date with culture we were more than a little aware that we were both a little smelly and dirty (remember the camp site had not had any facilities the previous night!) Jessica, without hesitation offered us the use of her flat and bathroom and so with the bill paid we were off to get cleaned up. Trustingly Jessica had given us free reign of the apartment. Whilst we showered and changed she went out giving us some privacy. Yet again, we both felt very humbled and honoured to be in the company of such genuine trust and hospitality. A short bus ride later and with Jessica acting as tour guide, we arrived at the park and it wasn’t long before we’d found Juan Diego (Jessica’s friend) The park was packed but luck was still with us as we found a bench for four.

As the concert progressed Lisa was in her element. The music and setting was perfect. The pianist elegantly positioned under a small marquee, which itself was dwarfed by the huge statue of Chopin sitting under the willow. Red rose bushes were everywhere and within this sea of red the afternoon passed all too quickly.

With the concert over and with our new friends we headed to ‘Old Town’, a district in Warsaw packed with restaurants and bars, now heavily used by tourists it still proved a picturesque setting for dinner. The evening called for some traditional Polish food to be eaten sat outside. We enjoyed our meal whilst discussing our trip and getting to know Diego.

Diego was Colombian and had arrived in Warsaw some 18 years earlier to study. He liked it and so stayed. Now Diego is also one of those clever people whom all too easily slips from language to language effortlessly, so talking to us in English one minute, would see him switch to Spanish the next whilst talking to Jessica. A few minutes later he was talking fluent Polish when chatting with the waiter. Polish is a very difficult language to pick up and apart from some difficult pronunciation it also has seven separate tenses. Diego had mentioned he had taken an intensive language course when he had first arrived. The intensive course was 8 months! We were going to have to be satisfied with learning the basics; hello, goodbye, please, thank you and of course 2 beers please!

As the evening drew in we suddenly realized that we had not found a campsite let alone put up the tent. Again, we needn’t have worried as Diego casually mentioned, “why are you camping? I have a spare room I never use, stay with me”. We graciously accepted and joked about how often he picked up odd-looking tourists in Warsaw and took them home.

The day was already hot as morning broke. After a quick shower we found Diego in the kitchen sorting out breakfast. Bread rolls, cereal and orange juice. We thanked him profusely and tucked in. Diego left for work as we headed off into Warsaw on the bus. The bus stop was practically in front of his apartment and dropped us off in the heart of the city. It couldn't have been any easier!

Being the heathen that I (Simon) am, and with the day getting hotter and hotter I dragged Lisa to the Cinema. It was 10:20 am and we had a date with a large green man with a temper. The HULK in Warsaw: Totally bizarre. The movie house was in itself amazing as it was an old soviet ministry building which had been converted. The cool air-conditioned building was a luxury after weeks of scorching weather.

Back outside and with Bruce Banner now condemned to a life of continuously ripping his wardrobe to shreds, we headed off to see more of the city. Our next stop was slightly more bizarre than our first as Lisa quickly dived into a large shop frontage on one of Warsaw’s largest and busiest streets. We quickly found the interior strangely familiar.....Marks & Spencer’s had arrived in Warsaw! With a huge variety of tea’s being offered in the newly finished bar, this place was trying hard and succeeding in being more English than any shop or tearoom at home. After our brief encounter with culture yesterday we thought we’d continue in the same vain and enjoyed Warsaw’s finest Earl grey and of course, the much needed, air-conditioning.

Warsaw is an amazing city. It was almost completely obliterated by German bombing during the War. 85% of the buildings in Warsaw were destroyed including the historic Old Town and the Royal Castle. It was almost immediately rebuilt by the Russians following victory. ‘Old Town’ and ‘New Town’ are in fact both relatively new, although the architecture would suggest otherwise. When the rebuilding commenced, old plans of the city were reused to reconstruct the city as closely as possible to the original. The place is now like many other large cities and yet still manages to retain a relaxed atmosphere, which sits quite comfortably alongside its rich and sometimes sad history.

Ultimately, Warsaw’s very existence is testament to its peoples will to overcome tremendous odds and hardship. We returned once again to the ‘Old Town’ for dinner, meeting Jessica and Diego once more. The prices are ludicrously cheap and the food exceptionally tasty. Starters, main courses, drinks and dessert for 3 came to £16. The evening finished late and we said our goodbyes to Jessica as we headed back to Diego’s.