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29-07-2008

By the time we’d made phone calls to BMW dealers and sorted out a few urgent emails, like renewing our medical insurance, it was 11:00am by the time we left Lancaster.

Lisa lead the way out of the car park, turned right and then yelled over the Autocom, “I’ve got no idea where I ‘m going”. She was right, we needed to have turned left. Brilliant! We’ve been on the road for less than 30 seconds and we’re already making a u-turn.

Well it’s now gone midnight and it’s been a longer day than we’d planned.

For the most part of the day we’d skirted the circling dark clouds and avoided getting soaked, the 2 kept us company as we headed eas all day, with its easy bends and gentle cambers. With traffic light and the bikes feeling good it had been hard to keep the speed down. A thousand road signs made sure you knew that the limit was either 35 or 55mph. If you didn’t get the message from those then the regular yellow warning signs identifying moose and elk areas made sure to get your attention.

We’d passed Romford, Mexico, Norridgewock and Skowhegan before stopping in Canaan. We’d been dry all day until now. We’d stopped for a bum break and seconds before walking into the gas station the downpour hit, we were sodden in seconds. C’mon you’ve got to be kidding?

We were in need of dougnuts and ‘cquoffeeeee’ as they see in these ‘ere parts. Dunkin Donuts was as good as any place to dry out. 20 minutes in and Sylvester and checkout girl knew pretty much our whole story and were still keen to ask more questions. It was a fun little stop and with the rain outside easing and our water-proofs now on we made a move and hit the road – taking along with us the freebie large packet of donuts given to us by Sylvester!

Off the 2 and on to the highway 95 saw us up to the town of Bangor…”didn’t we have a lovely time the day we went to Bangor…”, you get the idea that bloody song was in our head after that all afternoon.

Amhurst and Beddington were up next, we’d fixated on getting to Calais. I’ve got no idea why, but we’d chosen it as our target stop point for today.

We were going to have one little hiccup, well more of a splutter and a sudden stop actually, before we’d reach Calais. 30-miles out and Lisa was waiving her arms and pulling over. She’d run out of gas. No problem she’ll just turn of one of her front tanks. Oh that’s right…she can’t because there both bloody empty.

This was too funny, well it would have been if it hadn’t been for the fact that I then needed to run 13-miles up the road and then back, buy a container and of course fuel for you know who. The whole procedure cost us an hour, that and the fact that the container cost us $11 and had some kind of weird flow nozzle that doesn’t work on bikes and so we used a discarded water bottle as a funnel. Cheap and simple solutions are often the best!

Gassed up we pressed on through this beautiful and deeplu forested landscape – as Lisa kept saying ‘that’s a lot of bloody trees!’ Just imagine when most of this part of the country would all have been like this – forest as far as the eye can see…….. We passed Calais and didn’t even know, we needed somewhere to stop it and it was getting dusk and there was now a higher chance of animals on the road.

It was now almost dark and we’d been treated to a spectacular sunset of yellows, oranges, mauves and delicious orange, we just had to take a few photos. By the time we finished today’s ride we’d made it 320 miles, way longer than we intended, but we finished in style.

We’re camped at Passamaquoddy Bay, in the North-East of Maine, we’re told that this is the first USA soil to be struck by the rising Sun each morning.

We’d arrived and had eaten two donoughts all day, we needed to eat something before putting up the tent and so whilst I sorted checking in Lisa talked the kitchen into opening up and cooking us two lobster rolls…..well it is Maine after all. What a way to end a day. Fantastic.

30-07-2008

An earlier start than normal.

With talk last night of magnificent Sunrises, we needed to see this for ourselves and so by 4:20am, (Yes really!!) we’d slung the camera gear over our backs, crawled out of the tent on our hands and knees barely awake and had made it down to the edge of the bay. It didn’t disappoint. Rolling mist, pink sun-kissed clouds and dolphins made for a morning to remember. You can check out the photos and let us know what you think.

We’d pretty much just relaxed today. Had a few hours sleep in the sun and even managed to get around to a few bike jobs that we’d been putting off. We rounded our day off in style. Ever since we left the UK, we’d joked about how much we were looking forward to eating lobster in Maine. Tonight was the night. Nope we can’t afford it and yes we eneded up putting the bill on our ‘emergency use only credit card’, but hell, it’s so much more enjoyable spending money you don’t have! We had no side dishes, no sauces, no mayonnaise, just two 1 ½ pound whole boiled lobsters with drawn butter and a wedge of lemon. It was an absolute feast. I kept thinking of my dad (Keith) and how much he’d have loved to have been here. Shellfish etc are one of his passions; he’d have been in his element.

31-07-2008

We were geting packed up and saying goodbye to Frank, Bill and there respective wifes when we’d heard about ‘the neighbours’! They were describes ot us as likeable hippies with a flair for the unusual. Unuausal was right. We’d accepted an invitation to meet them at to take a peak at their new endevour…a fully kitted out tree house. It was quite simply amazing. Running hot water and all the normal ammenities…basically a real home but built into the rock and tree’s. We absolutely loved it. It had taken Jim and his wife 11 months of afternoon work. You could see where the work had gone; no detail had been left unattended. Every thing from doorways to towel hooks skillfully carved from timer and/or driftwood.

By 10:00am the day ws getting hotter and it was time for us to make a move and so with the tent and gear packed and the bikes loaded we waived and honked our farewells and made our way back dwn the dry firm dirt track and back onto the main road.

We were picking up the 1 (coastal highway) and just heading South. It’s been a gentle day. We’ve taken the small single lanes the run off the 1 where we could and enjoyed the views of the numerous harbours and working ports that we’ve cruised by.

By midday we were finally entering the town of Lubec, the most Easterly town in the USA. We had a quite moment of celebration having transitted the USA West to East for the first time, and we thought of the all the friends and people we’d left back on the West coast and of the wonderful people we’d met en-route East who’d shown us so trust, hosptiallity and generosity. It’s been quite a ride.

The camera memeroy cards were filled after our stop at the famous red and white lighthouse. So famous in fact that we’ve both completely forgotten the name of the place. Again, check out the photos to se if we did the place justice. The overcast sun made it a little difficult and left eh images looking a little flat.

We’ve stopped for the night…I have no idea. It’s a small campsite by a harbor (marked under the GPS file ‘maine 2’, it’s $18 a night and the rain started just as we arrived,so we’ve contructed a cover using a blue tarpaulin, some tie down straps and our old bungee cords. It’s kept us dry whukst Lisa cooked and given me some where to use the laptop.

We're just now cooking our evening meal, rice and fresh steamed vegetable. Coutesty of Jim and his wife this morning.

The rain just got heavier. It doesn’t matter, we’re glad to be back in the tent.

01-08-2008

We woke up bleary eyed and early to the sound of what Lisa calls ‘mizzle’. The combination mist and fine rain, the stuff that looks like nothing but somehow gets you soaked in seconds. We needed to get out of the tent, the humidity was 90%.

We began the pack away, everything feeling slightly sticky with the salt air of the coast. With the rain coming down harder we loaded the last few items onto the bike. Yuk, the effort and humidity meant that we were now as sweat soaked inside as we were rain soaked on the out. I hate this!

On the bikes and we were heading back out to the 1 and turning left heading South.

The 1 provided us a gentle enough ride but the rain was getting harder and harder, thank god for the water-proofs. Had we had to use the gore-tex as rain protection then it would have been worse.

By late afternoon we were heading into Castine, a small coastal town with its fair share of history. The last town in the USA to host the British after the revolution. Castine is one of the oldest communities in North America and in it’s time has been under the control of the French, Dutch, British and colonial America.

It now is the home of the Maine Maritime Academy, situated in the centre of town.

The fog and mist was blocking any view out fo the water and we parked in the harbor. We stopped in the main street and spoken with Jesse, the harbor master and asked his advice as to where we could find coffee and internet.

We planned on staying for a few day’s with Gary’s parents (friend fro the west coast), Mr. and Mrs Wasserman and had tried to call them a few times and give them some advance warning of our arrival. We only managed to get the voicemail with each call.

Inside the Compass Rose bookstore and coffe house, we connected to the web easily and dove into emails. Garys wife had mailed and given us the unfortunate news. Mr. Wasserman was unwell and in hospital undergoing test. So our plans would change. The last thing Mrs. Wasserman needs right now are house guest. We’ll make contact pass on our best wishes and arrange something else for tonight.

Back at the bikes and getting ready for the off, we’d attracted a small crowd and we answering questions as best we could. Some of the locals had even already been to our website, having read the address of the panniers.

It was time to make a move, heavier rain was coming in.

And so, back on the one we dropped into the woods and down countless dirt tracks and to the offices of a variety of campsites. The story was the same…$30 and upwards. On every nice owner told us theat camoing was $38 for two people but htat included the use of the kayaks. We didn’t feel like kayaking right now and so thanked him for his time and it the road. Too be honest it’s frustrating when we get charged in our tent the same amount as two people in a huge motorhome, towing a car, who also get power thrown in. We just can’t justify spending $40 on camping when a Motel 6 cost us $49.99. It’s mad. We just need a patch of grass to trhow up the tent.

By night fall we’d driven back up to Bar harbor where the KOA campsite and told us that without reservation it would cost us $52 for the night. Yeah, we didn’t stay there either.

Right ow we’ve found a small motel and it’s costing us $50. At least we get out of the rain, can shower, write up the diary and recharge all our electrical gear and batteries.

Dinner was courtesy of a small gas staion 2 miles down the road.

 


 

 
The next installment in the USA click here
 
 
 
 
click on the pics for
bigger images
en-route

the beautiful sunset as we arrive in Maine for our first night
 
 stunning
 
 This was worth getting up at 4:20am for
 
incredible colours
 
 
 
the rising Sun
 
this is an HDR image
 
..great texture
the early morning mist get hits by the Sun
As far East as you can ride in the USA
 
 
 
 
just one of the many harbours we passed