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| 15-11-2008 |
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Alvarado
to villerhermosa. Ended up riding in the dark,
again! The weather has got worse with constant
rain and gusty winds. Even though we were on the
smaller back-roads it still cost us a fiar bit
in tolls.
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| 16-11-2008 |
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Left
Villahermosa late after speaking with David the
personality photographer, who to our amazement
simply gave us 1000 pesos towards gas and wished
us well.
Rode
all day and made it to Campeche and staid at the
ocean view hotel, The exact same hotel as two
years ago. Once again the tolls took quite a bit
out of our wallets– gas too has gone way
up ad we ended up paying out almost MX500 $.
Late
into teh evening we met Oscar and his friend on
their 1200gs’s 60km outside of Campeche.
He’s offered to ship anything to us.
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| 17-11-2008 |
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Managed
to get to the town of ‘Chichen Itza’,
albeit late and in the dark. The motel we found
was pricey but they’ve let us camp in the
ground for the equivalent of $5 a night.
We
just got back from a walk into the town and having
managed to pick up 3 tacos each for $2 a head,
we hadn't ralised how hungary we were.
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| 18-11-2008 |
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warm humid heat of the morning woke us as we squirmed
in in sleeping bags, the liners sticking to our
already perspiring skin. The heat was already
adding to the sense of cluastaphobia. With a clean
face and brushed teeth it was already looking
like a good day. The free coffee served by John
and the relaxed conversation with the German girl
staying across the way all made for a pretty cool
kick off.
We
were both more than a little excited about today.
For as long as we’d been planning the trip
the location ‘Chichen Itza’ (direct
translation: At the mouth of the well of the Itza)had
kept a special place in our hearts. One of the
Wonders of the world. A vast Mayan ruin city,
dating back to roughly 300 AD, surrounded by Jungle.
Well, with cameras in hand we walked the easily
marked road down to the site, found our place
in teh ticket line, paid 108 pesos each and began
to explore. Actually explore is a little over
stated. There's no dramativ pulling pback of the
jungle curtain as 50 feet past the ticket booths,
along a dirt path the area simply clears and the
Temple of Kukulkan or El Castillo (The Castle)
rises into the sky. The impact is immediate and
imposing. Four stone steep stairways lead to the
top, one on each side. It's easy to imagine centuries
of colourfull and perhaps gruesome ceromines being
carried out to appease the God's.
Around
every corner another structure, ancient observatory
or temple. Proud sculptures of jaguars, eagles
and lizards decorate each building. Two thousand
years of history in one location. The sheer size
and scope of Chichen Itza is mind boggling. CHeck
out some of our photos, hopefuly they'll paint
a better picture.
By
the end of the day we were both exhausted, we
must have walked miles. A couple of cold beers
and some food prior to us crawling into our tent
was a great way of winding up the day. Bloody
hell my feet hurt. Hpe you enjoy the photos. |
| 19-11-2008 |
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It
was dark by the time we pulled into the small
sandy and hidden beach camp that is Xpu-Ha, it
felt in many ways like coming home. The lights
from Issabelles trailer were shinning and as we
gate-crashed in our riding gear, half a dozen
familiar faces smiled up at us, all a little surprised.
Jim and Shelley, Issabelle, Martina and Gabby
sat around playing poker, much as we’d left
them 2-years prior. The relaxed atmosphere and
evenings blamy warmth was just as we’d remembered
it.
We've
covered 360-miles, it's taken all day as we've
done our best to stay off the main route, which
have been incredibly expensive, especially having
to pay for two bikes.
With
our tent pitched under a canopy of small palm
trees, it was time to get out of the riding gear
and into a 'something a little more comfortable'.
The warm white sand between my toes felt like
heaven. Under a clear nights sky, the lapping
waters of the sea, massage the beach. Down in
the diataance to our right, the sky glows softy
illuminated orange and yellow from the electric
lights of a small cmommunity. To our left, nothing
but darkness as the beach dissapears.
It
feels great to be here, the familiarity, the beach,
the heat and the sand. Now we can relax for the
first time in a while.
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| Our
time on Xpu-Ha Beach. |
Intentionally
I’ve not been keeping a daily diary of
our time in Mexico, which is a shame in some
ways, as when we rode North from Central America,
I’d made a similar decision, it has nothing
to do with Mexico, just simply that I wanted
a break from writing. That said I’m still
keen to keep a written memory of our time here,
with special thanks to the friends we’ve
made here who have made this time extremely
special.
Life
fell into a pretty cool rhythm for us pretty
quickly. We’d found a great pitch for
the tent under a canopy of Palms and had even
managed to get ourselves some privacy with the
use of a couple of the tarpaulins hung between
the stouter trees. Like two years prior, we’d
found Juan, a local hammock maker and seller
and had bought a beautiful double sized hammock.
Stretched out close to the tent, it was perfect
for an afternoon siesta.
The
small wash facilities are basic but good, we
have toilets and showers, OK only two showers
and yes they’re cold but in the heat they
feel great.
I’d
found a washed up wooden table on the beach
in the first months and with a visit to a hardware
stall, had bought some nails and some sand paper.
With a plank of wood I’d found on the
beach I’d replaced the truly rotten stuff
and nailed it back together. I’d then
sanded it for two days to get rid of the salty,
fishy smell. With the table buried 4-feet into
the sand, just outside the tent, it made the
perfect sit around table for food and drinks.
Yeah, I know, I was feeling all Robinson Crusoe
at that point and kind of liking it!
Let
me share some of the better shots we managed
to capture. All of for sale.



Food
was just a 20-minute bike ride away, up to Playa
Del Carmen and the local water seller drove
to the beach once a week in his clapped out
van, dispensing 5-litre jugs for 15 pesos. It
gets better. Whilst we’ve been away a
local gas station has been built at the top
of the track down to Xpu-Ha, mid-evening walks
through the jungle like forestation became regular;
well they would wouldn’t they. A huge
bag of ice was the equivalent of 50c and a litre
of Bacardi was $7. Yeah, we were really toughing
it.
Our
Brilliant Kermit Chairs became sanctuary in
the evening for us as much as anyone who visited.
Let me introduce the neighbors and friends.
Across the way is Isabelle a true Scottish lass,
who spends 6-months here and the rest of the
year at her home in Canada. Isabelle is an inspiration
and a legend in her own life time, not to mention
one hell of a dancer. Jim and Shelly, like spend
half the year her and the other 6-months all
over the world seemingly. Gabby form Germany
has been living here full time for the last
16-years. The whirlwind that is Corey Friend,
no…that is, her last name and yes she
is a friend had arrived a few weeks after we
had. Corey’s been coming down here for
as long as anyone, a masseur, a physiotherapist
and tour guide and all-round good person. Amongst
her other attributes she can always be counted
on for telling you ‘like it is’…and,
on command can make a platoon of navy seals
blush with her language. Corey we luv ya’,
you’re a force of nature’.
Rick
and Denis from Canada also arrived shortly after
we had and found their usual camp spot up on
the beach itself. It was great to see them,
they hadn’t changed. More than few evening
saw us up on the beach, around another scrounged
table cooking, eating and drinking.
As
the weeks passed we’d head off on the
bikes to explore other parts of Mexico, the
ruins, the cenotes (Freshwater sinkholes) and
of course life in general. Mexico has so much
to offer, gret weather, great people and fantastic
food.
David
and Jenna, owners of the new kiteboarding school,
Freestyle Playa (now named Morph) quickly became
fast friends. They’d taken over one of
the beach polapas and were treaching whe the
wind would allow. I’d seen kite boarders
in Spain, after being holed up in Tarifa, waitingof
rour spares before Africa. It looked impressive.
Eager to give it a try I struck a deal with
David, I’d give him some high res’
photos and he’d teach me to kite board.
It worked out pretty well but too be honest,
I suck at kite-boarding. I’ll stick to
motorbikes. That said I did manage to get some
great shots and even taught myself hwo to render
some wonderful montage shots of the guys jumping,
basically 5-10 continues shots put together
in one images. Check out the photos and you’ll
see what I mean.
Jacob
and Patrick form Canada had come dow to teach
for David. Both great guys. Nick names were
needed; Jacob with his never ending energy was
dubbed the ‘Puppy’. You know how
they are, all cute, tons of energy and never
get bored of the same stick being thrown. Jacob
has to be one of themost up-beat people I’ve
ever met. A constant source of good energy,
silly voices and one-liners that ended up sinking
into your sychy and became Xpu-ha anthems…”what
is it you caaauun’t face”! Dylan
was local kid, who we watched over the course
fo the weeks start by taking lesson and enede
up being a part time intructor, he just got
realyy good, really fast.
Patrick,
with his tattoos, laid back attitude and misschieviuos
grin was simply dubbed…”naughty
Patrick’, I think he kinda like it? All
in all there was a cool vibe between all of
us. Enough connection to keep things tight,
but enough room that we coud find space if it
all got a bit to cazy.
Eve
(from Argentina) and Natalie (from France),
were on the other side of the fence in one of
the one-roomed apartments and had been living
and working here for a few years. We loved the
evening with them, as we’d swap English
for Spanish and then French or more precisely
Lisa, Eve and Nat did, I’d just throw
in the occasional word and hope no-one noticed
that I was bluffing my way through, pretending
to have linguistic skills.
We
owe Pepe a a huge thankuoi for teching Lisa
and I how to Scuba. We’d spent an incedible
dya with Pepe in one of the local cenotes. The
experience with stay with us for life. A real
privelidge learning to explore just alittle
of that other underwater world. Again, check
out the photos for a better idea…I’m
really just rambling here as I rember a thousand
different experiences.
With
our lives settling into more of a routine than
they had for years, we could focus on getting
healthy. Both Lisa and I had packed on unwanted
weight and were very unhappy with our aerobic
fitness. We weren’t under any misconceptions
either that we’d need more strength before
tacking Mongolia. Lisa especially was desperate
to get back into shape after her surgery a few
months back. With goals set, we steadily set
about putting together an excersice regime and
by the time we’d left Mexico, I’d
lost 30-pounds, Lisa’s had lost 23 and
we’d both remembered what it was like
to feel healthy, fit and strong.
None
of this really does any kind of justice to the
memories that Lisa and I have of our time on
Xpu-ha beach, but I want to keep some of it
private, as for the rest I hope the images attached
will give you an idea.
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Heading
back to the usa to over-haul the bikes see you
back there
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click
on the pics for
bigger images |
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| Heading
South |
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| ...not
a bad back drop for a coffee |
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| at
Chichen Itza, hopeing to get some good shots |
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| One
fo the four set of steep stairway on El Castillo |
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| The
best shot of the day and one of the luckiest. I have it
on colour but thought it looked more dramatic in Sepia |
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| Guardians
of the temples |
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| Chichen
Itza is covered in intricate stone carvings |
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| an
imposing view |
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| Let
me introduce our friends...above is Jim and Shelley, partying
as always. |
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| Gabby |
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| Naughtey
Patrick |
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| "The
Golden Puppy" - Jacob |
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| Graham
made it down for Christmas |
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| Jenna |
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| Jenna's
man, David. |
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| Eve
and Natalie. |
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| Pepe
and Nat'. |
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| From
left, Issabelle, Patrick, me, Jacob and Martina |
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| Nat
and Jacob |
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| The
gang |
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| Lisa's
parents managed to fly in for New Years. As you can tell
it was a quite, calm affair????? |
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| Alan
sorting our the priorities. |
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| Graham
with possibly the worst ever hang-over in teh world...Ever!!!! |
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| Lisa
look well and healthy again, the first time in a while...brilliant. |
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| Our
beach home. |
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| Photos
from Pepe , Cave diving in one of the Cenotes. |
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| beautiful |
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| and
a bit scarry |
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| The
three muskateers. |
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| Graham
still suffering from the sme hang-over as above...Oooeehh,
tha's gotta bring back some bad memories. |
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| Us
with David nad Jenna |
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