28-01-2004 : The Gambia  

The night had been a little restless – we had decided not to get out the mattresses and so slept on our motorbike kit (and all of the red dust!) and Moroccan rug. Both of us also woke at the slightest sound and so woke un-refreshed still covered in a layer of dust despite trying last night to ‘wet-wipe’ it all off. (Thank god for wet-wipes!)

We headed back to the ‘main’ road and the border crossing at Farafenn for entry into The Gambia. The road was much more of the same and by the time we’d reached the border it was much later than we’d hoped.

The border formalities on both sides were no problem with the border guards in The Gambia being very helpful giving advice as to the best route to take and the road conditions. The carnet was stamped out of Senegal and used for entry into The Gambia – the border guards are well versed in the Carnet formalities. It was also so very strange to hear English once again instead of us having to struggle with our slowly improving French!

Waved on our way we made a decision to stay on the North bank of the river and head East towards Georgetown. This route was shorter in distance than the south bank road and despite the south side being asphalt this was in very poor condition with many potholes whereas the north side was having a new road constructed and much of it was flattened and hard piste in readiness for the asphalt. We started to make good progress but were stopped frequently at customs posts and controls with each stop being no less that half and hour each! Nothing was asked for (apart from the last new guard) but all were interested in asking us where we’d travelled to how long were we travelling where did we come from – the questions were endless and of course all in fluent English so we couldn't’t pretend we didn’t understand in order to speed things up by not having to answer! The last guard was a pain in the butt! Apparently he’d just been in the job for 3 days and wanted to do everything perfectly and ‘by the book’. This meant that he wanted to see all our paperwork including the Carnet, which was nicely packed away as we only get it out for borders, plus what was in Simon’s large and rather full pockets and these suites have a lot of pockets! When Simon offered to empty his pockets, because the guard was going through them one-by-one he got uppity! Then came the ‘gift’ request and this guy wasn’t going to take ‘No’ for an answer. It was now getting late and we really needed to make a move and so offered him a pack of cigarettes from our precious bribe supply – this worked and we were allowed to go on our way. We had another 35km to go in order to reach Georgetown and it was getting dark and the road quality had disintegrated and was now full of amazingly huge potholes! This meant that we were having to constantly weave from one side of the now rutted and sandy mud road to the other trying to avoid these large holes – sometimes there were just too many and despite the fact that we were going slowly they’d still give you a jolt as we carefully rode into them! This became very tiring and by 6:30pm we stopped, pulled over behind a hedge and set up the tent just on the edge of a field of maze. Too knackered to do anything else, a pan of instant soup was the only thing we could be bothered to do!

29-01-2004

A better nights sleep but more from being knackered than comfortable I think! We were only about 15 km away from Georgetown and so headed off back onto the road knowing that it was only for a very short while. About 30 min's later we arrived at Lamin Koto and the edge of the Gambia river – which is one of the widest we have seen so far. Unsure as to what to do – whether to use the ferry to cross the river – or look for a camp site on the north side rather than Georgetown itself – we were pounced on by a young man who persuaded us that there was a very good site just a few min's away. Desperate for a shower and coffee we followed him and ‘hey presto’ arrived in the colonial and very picturesque campsite of Jangjang-bureh. Not only is this place beautiful but camping is free…our favorite price.

30-01-2004

Stayed at Jangjang-bureh camp into Georgetown to look for someone to solder. Had lunch at small bar being run by a very entrepreneurial young man! Taken to see the ‘slave house’. As we got back from the town after hunting for ‘crazy glue’ we were met with much waving and cheering!? A group of South Africans, Americans, and the Spanish cyclists we’d met on the road only a few days before all greeted us like long lost friends. We immediately sat down with them and had a few beers – well you have to with South Africans around! A big thank you to Fred, JJ and everyone else that made our stay so memorable.

31-01-2004
Jangjang-bureh
 
 
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a British legacy left in a small town
 
The red dust piste to George town
setting up camp 35Km outside George town
on and on...
camping at JangJang-Bureh
returning from George town to JangJang...idelic
a great crowd.
just oneof the locals
Gambian river sunset